Moorea 2/24/24

 Moorea

Authored by Laurie Hardcastle Seil

It appears that once we’ve reached Mo’orea, the “Magical Island”, we’ve arrived in paradise. This should be pure tropical bliss as we tender to shore to the village of Papeotai in Opunohu Bay. There should be small booths off the tender dock that will be offering tours. Currency here is the CFP Franc, aka French Pacific Franc, and payment in cash is often required so check to see what you might need before you go as ATMs are few and far between (I looked on a map!) and banks will be closed on Sunday.

Mo’orea is part of the Society Islands archipelago, part of the 118 islands and atolls that make up French Polynesia, or as it’s more commonly called, The Islands of Tahiti. These are scattered across the Pacific in an area roughly the size of Western Europe. Mo’orea is only 16 mi (26 km) long and 11 mi (18 km) wide. The island formed as a volcano somewhere between 1.5-2.5 million years ago, as did the rest of this chain, over a volcanic hot spot. The Polynesians established themselves on the island around 800 AD and had their Eden to themselves until the first known Europeans, Captain Samuel Wallis and his crew, arrived in 1767. In 1769 it was James Cook who named this archipelago the Society Islands, after the Royal Society who had helped sponsor his scientific expedition. The story of how France took control of the islands in 1842 is too convoluted to write about but take control they did, calling it a protectorate, then later an overseas territory, and now they call it an overseas collectivity, definite government speak there. You’ll hear both Tahitian and French spoken here and in Papeete. During WW2 a military base was created here on this beautiful island that has rainforests and pineapple plantations on the mountain slopes next to gorgeous beaches and lagoons. Today tourism runs the economy of the island, which made for a real struggle during the pandemic, along with the very small industries of growing pineapple, bananas, and vanilla, as well as fishing.

Having a coral reef that surrounds the island makes for excellent snorkeling and diving. It’s also a great place to do some hiking for amazing views, two of the many trails include Pass of the Three Coconuts, love that name, and the Magic Mountain trail. With Magic you can also take a 4x4 vehicle tour to the top. One of the most famous spots on the island to take a picture is at the Belvedere Lookout, to get there you drive, or bike, up a dirt road for the excellent views of the Opunohu Valley, plus the Cook and Opunohu Bays. From this vantage point you’ll be able to see how those two inlets give Mo’orea its trident shape.

Now for a little on beaches and water sports. Here’s just a partial list of beaches you can find on the island, Ta’ahiamanu has showers but not restrooms, Tema’e is great for swimming and snorkeling on the north side of the island, while Tiahura is small but it does have both showers and restrooms, take aqua socks or water shoes if you go there as it can be rocky, and then there’s Tipaniers, If you’d prefer to be on the water rather than in it there should be kayak rentals, which include glass bottom or transparent versions, check out the picture in the collage, I’d never seen such a thing before. There’s also paddle boarding, again these come in transparent versions, jet ski tours, and kite surfing for those feeling really adventurous.

Shopping in Mo’orea may be limited to the souvenir tables that should be in an open-air pavilion at the tender drop-off spot as almost all shops will be closed on Sunday. Don’t expect to haggle on prices, they are pretty much set. Pearls are the things to buy here. One food I found suggested more than once was poisson cru, Tahitian ceviche made with ahi tuna that’s been marinated in lime juice and served with veggies in coconut milk. There’s also a Tahitian donut made with coconut milk called firi firi that sounds enticing. And I hadn’t thought of it but it was mentioned that fresh baguettes, croissants and pastries are excellent here as well. Oui, oui!

Moorea is a very small island and works very hard to preserve its culture.  We were in port on a Sunday, which meant most of the businesses were closed, so I am glad we had booked a tour, or we would have missed out on seeing this beautiful island.  Need more days to truly get immersed here.  We browsed the little market by the pier and found a restaurant that was open for lunch.  Our tour was billed as a safari - 4-wheel drive road tour around the island to see the highlights.  As our guide told us, we will be shaken not stirred!  and he was so right, but being bumped around on the ride was worth it to make to the top of Magic Mountain and see the spectacular views and the waters are exquisite.  Got a great picture with our ship in the background at the top of the mountain.  A little excitement when our driver decided to back down the mountain to get to our next stop!!!  On to a pineapple farm down by the river. The pineapple is harvested by hand and has to be picked just as it ripens or the ants will devour them, they weed as they pick to get ready for the next crop.   Kids were at the river just hanging on a Sunday afternoon, blasting their music, and just having fun.  Some things are universal. This island is so very lush, reminded us of Kawaii.  This tropical rain forest lives up to its name by getting copious amounts of rain especially in rainy season which keeps it so lush.  On to Belvedere Point with more spectacular views of the mountains.  Our guide has been in Moorea for 30 years, is a native Polynesian, and loves his island.  Main economy is tourism, so the pandemic really beat them down.  Our last stop was Cooks Bay, and it is surreal thinking about how those mariners came to these islands so many years ago, it is incredible.  On to our next stop, Papeete....