Antigua Guatemala 2/5/24

Antigua, Guatemala

Authored by Laurie Hardcastle Seil

Just a quick note on Puerto Quetzal which is pretty much just a gateway to the country’s inland attractions. It is Guatemala’s largest Pacific port and is named after the country’s beloved Resplendent Quetzal, that’s the actual name of the bird, the only one of its species with that adjective in front. However, here in Guatemala it is much more than just a spectacularly long-tailed, colorful bird, it’s a source of national pride and a symbol of the country, you’ll even find its images on Guatemalan currency. Once off the ship there will be local vendor stalls selling locally made souvenirs and traditional crafts near, or at the terminal, as well as a jade museum/store. There really isn’t much of anything to see here in Puerto Quetzal so you’re going to need to book something or enjoy a day on the ship today. Humid and tropical coastal Guatemala is not nearly as populous as the more temperate central highlands, which is where most of the citizenry lives.

Antigua which is located on a lovely, scenic site between three volcanos, Fuego, Agua and Acetenango, the 500 year-old city is 1530 m (5,019 ft) above sea level. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was originally laid out on a Renaissance grid system, one of the first of its kind in the Americas, with cobbled streets, colorful buildings, lots of church ruins, and brilliant flowers. A settlement named Santiago de los Caballeros was founded in the area in 1524 but was soon destroyed by angry indigenous people, it was built a second time in a nearby location but destroyed again by an earthquake and landslide, then finally moved to the present site in 1543. It became the capital of the Spanish Captaincy-General of Guatemala during colonial days, a huge geographic area which covered all of Central America down to Panama, and then north into southern Mexico. With so many volcanos in the area it shouldn’t be surprising that it’s earthquake prone, with several causing damage over the years until in 1773 so much destruction was inflicted by the Santa Marta earthquakes that the powers that be decided they’d had enough and moved the capital to what would become Guatemala City. Santiago de los Caballeros then became known as “La Antigua Guatemala”, later shortened to just La Antigua, which means “the old one”. The once-thriving city was mostly abandoned after that until the mid-1800s when agriculture production brought new investments to the area. It’s partially thanks to that abandonment, plus protective regulations put in place in 1944, that many of the old buildings, fountains and ruins have survived.

The Parque Central is the center of town, it’s a green space with fountains surrounded by historic buildings and a great place to people watch. The large two-story building with arches across the front that’s along one side of the square is the Palace of the Captains-General. It was the government and military offices, as well as the luxurious residence of the Captain General when it was built in 1558. The most iconic spot in all of Antigua is probably the Santa Catalina Arch, one of the oldest structures in Guatemala. Taking a picture in front of this yellow and white span with Agua Volcano in the background is pretty much obligatory when you visit. La Merced Church is a large Baroque place of worship that actually survived the 1773 earthquake, and this soft yellow building is still in use today, with bells that ring for funerals and weddings. A place that didn’t fare as well but whose ruins can still be found within the city is the Santo Domingo Church and Monastery, where there are museums, plus it’s also the site of a more recently built luxury hotel. Damaged but partially rebuilt after 1773 is the Antigua Cathedral, what’s still there is an impressive sight.

Near Santo Domingo is the Jade Maya Museum that has displays of various works made from this stone. The Maya pioneered working with and carving jade in this area and it was one of their most valuable possessions.

We went on a tour to the colonial town of Antigua, getting a taste of the local foods. The volcanoes are still active and end off a lot of smoke so pictures of them are hazy and you can't really see the top. Our first stop was to have an enchilada - more like a tostada to us - it is built up to form the shape of a volcano and was very tasty. Did a bit of shopping for the grands, and I made my first purchase for me - a beautiful woven table runner for back home. From there we headed into the town of Antigua which is quite charming and retains a strong sense of the past. The Santa Catalina Arch was built specifically for the nuns to cross to the other side of the street and with the volcano framed in the arch, I understand why it is so popular. Walking around the town, we did some more shopping for the grands and toured the cathedral. The town square is a very busy place, with all of the tourists and vendors...then on to lunch - small appetizer dish and then a stew full of fresh vegetables and chicken. Quite tasty...a walk through the Starbucks which is housed in an old hacienda and is absolutely gorgeous....and much to Mickey's dismay, a stop at the Jade Museum and store....the town was full of cobblestone roadways and the fruit stands were everywhere - produce is a huge part of their economy and there were markets stands all along the highways....very nice day and we got in about 8000 steps today.