Antartica 1/10-14, 2024

 Antartica 

Drakes Passage, Gerlache Strait, Paradise Bay, Elephant Island

Authored by Laure Hardcastle Seil

You need to break out those cold weather clothes and layer yourself to keep warm as we arrive at the Antarctic Peninsula, the closest part of the continent to South America. Although we won’t be getting off the ship here there will be incredible frigid and wild scenery to see along with a variety of wildlife. Those of you with zoom lenses on your cameras or a set of powerful binoculars will be happy to have them along with you today. 

Our first area to visit is supposed to be the Gerlache Strait, a famous piece of water on the west side of the peninsula that separates it from the Palmer Archipelago, and home to blue icebergs, humpback and minke whales who feed on the swarms of krill here, plus snow-covered mountains. You may even spot penguins standing or sunning on ice floes. The strait is 200 km (124 mi) long, is 50 km (31 mi) wide on its northern end and as narrow as 10 km (6.2 mi) wide on the southern end. It’s named in honor of Belgian explorer Adrien de Gerlache who first explored the area in 1898, although the discoverer himself originally named it “Belgiac Strait”. It was a heavily trafficked whaler hunting grounds during the early 20th century and is still one of the most sailed through regions of Antarctica. Many consider it the most beautiful area on the continent.

Paradise Bay is a harbor near Lemaire and Bryce Islands with jagged, rock-like chunks of ice that overlook the bay, also where whales and gentoo penguins live. It’s one of the few places that is used as a stop for cruise ships, and again, no, we’re not stopping. There are two scientific research bases located here. Although Chile’s station is no longer in use it has a designation as a Historic Site as it has a shelter that was used by the Chilean president when he became the first head of state to visit Antarctica. The other base belonging to Argentina, is perched above the bay, and is only open in the summer. Originally the whalers who came here in the early 1920s called this spot “Paradise Harbor”. A small informational aside for you, whaling in the area is now banned. This spot is one of the coldest and windiest places on Earth where the weather is unpredictable and cruise routes can change at the last minute. I’m really hoping we’ll get to see the glacial mountains reflected on the icy waters, along with the massive glaciers and scattered icebergs that can be found here.

Although I couldn’t find anything on Dalhan Bay I’m guessing that it will be similar to the Schollaert Channel, our final sight to see today. As we traverse the channel, we pass between Brabant Island and Anvers Island, the latter is the largest island on the Palmer Archipelago, a spot where icebergs, snow, and blue waters create incredible panoramic views. It’s also the home of the Palmer US Research Station. The channel connects the Gerlache Strait with Dalhan Bay. This spot is a great place to see leopard seals, dolphins, maybe even a blue whale, plus more penguins and humpback or minke whales. Adrien de Gerlache named the channel for Fans Schollaert, a Belgian statesman who later became prime minister.

Keep your fingers, toes, and nose warm today and something close to warm you up inside as we explore a bit of the southern end of the planet. We’re definitely among the lucky few who ever get to see this wild and wonderful place. Enjoy!

Our itinerary was changed from Port Stanley, Falkland Islands to heading directly to Anartica due to weather.  Our captain chose the sailing days of 20-to-25-foot waves in the Drake Passage (known as Drakes's Shakes) rather than the 40 to-50 foot waves on our original schedule.  It was a wild ride but the ship weathered it quite well.  Our cabin is aft (back of ship) and while we experoenced rocking and rollimg, it really wasnt too bad.  Fortunately neither of us need motion sickness medicine.....Mickey went to the front of the ship and he said it was like riding a wild bronco!  waves were cresting over the front of the ship and it was extremely loud...lots of booms as we made our way to Gerlach Strait.  I tried to add some photos and videos but they don't do it justice.  And we were told this was one of the calmer rides!!

After our Mr Toad's wild ride, we arrived at Gerlach Strait, and the water was like glass...while it was cold, 32 degrees, there was little or no wind so viewing this magnificent nature scene from the deck was totally doable...I really have no words to describe how absolutely breathtaking and surreal this day was.  The icebergs are so lovely, and the wildlife that we were able to see.... whales, penguins, sea birds.  Unfortunately, no polar bears on the South pole.  To think that we are at the bottom of the earth, and that our cruise will take us almost to the top by the end of our sailing days doesn't seem possible.  Mickey and I are in awe of the explorers who braved their way to Antartica - hard to imagine them sailing the Drakes Passage which can and has been deadly.  We are totally blown away by mother nature and had a very peaceful day just slowly cruising.  The captain made a slight detour when he spotted the iceberg with the arches and did a 360 so no matter where you were on the ship, you had a front seat row.  One of the videos shows the ship coming around...  If possible, Paradis Bay was even more stunning - to wake up and look out our window to see mother nature at her best was an incredible experience.  The captain kept us informed of all the whale sightings, penguins, and unusual iceberg formations and folks were running from port to starboard to catch a glimpse.  In Paradise Bay, the whales were out in force, and everyone had terrific views.  Many of the pictures and videos I am posting have come from fellow cruisers...one of the most fun on the ship was seeing the crew experiencing snow for their first time.  The captain gave time to them to get pictures and see this extraordinary scenery (in stages, but I believe they all got the chance to capture their pictures.  Captain Stig sent a boat out to sea, and they brought back a piece of the iceberg, and also filled the pool with sea water for those brave enough to do the polar plunge.  I have to say, Royal is doing a great job in enhancing our experience on board.  Hope you enjoy the pictures and videos.  As more folks post pics, I may be adding to this post!!!  Not sure if Iguazu Falls or Antarctica is the winner of most spectacular.... so very hard to choose...